Thanks to celebs like Cara Delevingne, Kim Kardashian, and Olivia Culpo, brows are having a serious moment right now. But if you weren’t blessed with strong arches (or don’t have a glam squad on speed dial), finding the right product for your specific shape can be overwhelming. To figure out what your ideal brow regimen should be, read on!

Sparse Brows

Use a pomade: Bold brows are the shape du jour. But if you’re someone with very little hair who wants to achieve a fuller look, brow expert and owner of NYC’s Hibba Beauty, Hibba Kapil, advises that a pomade is your best option. A waxy formula like Tarte Amazonian Clay Waterproof Brow Mousse ($29) is a solid pick because you can easily draw on hairs that don’t exist IRL without appearing OTT. Use small strokes to fill in a natural-looking brow or use longer, straighter lines for a sleeker, more polished effect.

Thin Brows

Use a brow pen: A pen offers greater precision, allowing you to draw individual lines only where needed — which peeps with thin brows can totally appreciate. Reach for Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Brow Color ($21). Its marker-like felt tip fills out your shape with a waterproof, long-wearing formula. Kapil recommends using fluid strokes to elongate your brows and short, tiny markings to create the overall shape.

Full Brows

Use a pencil: If you’re already sporting a solid, full shape but need to fix a few problem areas, a pencil is your answer. “The most important step is to blend, blend, blend the products, but gently,” instructs Kapil. “It should look like your own, natural hairs, which is why blending is key.” Draw in a couple faux brow hairs where you may have bald spots with a precise pencil like Hourglass Arch Brow Sculpting Pencil ($34).

Unruly brows

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Use a clear brow gel: If you’re lucky enough to have full, bushy arches that just need a bit of taming, add a clear gel like Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Gel ($22) to your makeup bag stat. This invisible formula is applied with a small spoolie wand to keep your brow hairs in check. Brush through as the last step of your morning beauty routine and you’re good to go all day long!

Light Brows

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Use a tinted brow gel: Ladies with light brows who just want a bit more definition can get the best results with a tinted gel. A colored solution like Lancôme Sourcils Styler Brow Styler ($27) gently tints your brows, depositing noticeable but natural-looking pigment that instantly transforms your look. “A tinted brow gel is one of the easiest ways to improve the look of lightly colored or blonde brows,” Kapil explains.

Delicate Brows

Use a powder: When your brows need an overall boost, Kapil suggests shaping and filling them in with a powder. A product like the Maybelline Brow Drama Pro Palette ($13) has everything you need to create more visible arches. Use the double-ended brush and powder to create thin or thick strokes, depending on the look you’re after. Apply the deepest shade toward the end of your brows, the lighter brown at the beginning, and the translucent setting wax with the spoolie all over to keep those hairs set.

Growing Out Brows

Use a conditioning primer: “If you’re just starting out on the re-growth process, use a nice conditioning serum or primer,” says Kapil. Everyone conditions the hair on their head, but very rarely do you worry about conditioning your brow hair. Foster a healthy growing environment with Benefit Cosmetics BROWVO! Conditioning Primer Nutrient Rich Eyebrow Primer ($28). Apply it before bed and before you use brow makeup to jumpstart growth and give some extra love to the hair you already do have.

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