The Handygirl's Guide to Doing Home Projects Yourself

Materials: Sherwin-Williams® Emerald® Interior Paint in two colors (Embellished Blue SW 6749, Refresh SW 6751), Sherwin-Williams® Shrink-Free Spackling Compound, putty knife, wanding sponge, painter's tape, paintbrush, paint roller, paint tray.

Step 1: Start by cleaning all surfaces with a wet rag. Apply spackling to fill any holes or uneven surfaces, and follow with the sanding sponge to smooth down patches. Make sure to wipe away dust before painting. (Always use a respirator when sanding.)*

Step 2: Use the painter's tape to mark your design. Be sure the edges of the tape are stuck well to the wall. The back of a putty knife works well for this.

Step 3: Paint the lighter shade first and allow it to dry. Apply a second coat as needed. Adjust the painter's tape and paint the darker shade. Apply a second coat as needed.

Step 4: Once dry, carefully peel away the tape.

Voila! The perfect backdrop for all your lounging.

Materials: Stud finder, pencil, drill, hanging hardware, screwdriver, screws (4), rope. hanging chair.

Step 1: Use a stud finder to locate your ceiling support joists. "When hanging anything at home that's going to take weight, you always want to find a structure to attach it to," says Jason Pickens, DIY expert for HGTV’s YouTube channel.

Step 2: Based on chair instructions (these may vary), place your hook mount on the ceiling and use a pencil to mark where to drill, making sure all four marks are in the joists.

Step 3: Drill the pilot holes (the bit should be slightly smaller than the screw) into the ceiling. Then, carefully drill the screws into the four holes, securing the hook mount.

Step 4: Secure the hanging hardware to the mount.

Step 6: Measure and cut your rope to the desired hanging length and height from the floor. Tie a reverse lark’s head knot by folding your piece of rope in half and placing across the top of the chair, with the folded portion nearest to you and the knot on the other side of the chair. Bring the knotted side toward you, passing under the chair and over the folded area of the rope.

Step 7: Finish the rope with a secure knot on the opposite end and clip that knot into the mount.

Sit, swing, read, and enjoy!

Materials: Stud finder, drywall anchors (as needed), measuring tape, pencil, drill, curtain rod, screws (4), frame set, brass hooks, Macrame rope, scissors, screw driver.

Step 1: Choose where in the room and at what height you want to hang your gallery. "The optimal height for art on walls, as in a real art gallery, is to center the painting or picture 57 inches high from the ground," says Jason Pickens, DIY expert for HGTV’s YouTube channel. "But then, of course, breaking rules is also fun.”

Step 2: Use a stud finder to locate wall studs at the desired hanging height. Measure the curtain rod and then measure the distance from the floor to the stud on either side, making two light pencil marks. If no studs are present, insert drywall anchors to provide extra structural support. "The weight of hanging photos adds up quickly," says Pickens. "Be sure to use heavy-duty anchors when attaching curtain-rod brackets to the wall.”

Step 3: Make two pilot holes with your drill.

Step 4: Insert screws into the brackets with a screwdriver, ensuring both are flush with the wall.

Step 5: Fit the curtain rod into the brackets and tighten the inner screws with a screwdriver.

Step 6: Attach the brass hooks to the back of the frames.

Step 7: Cut two pieces of macrame rope the same length, and tie the ends together. Tie a reverse lark’s head knot by folding your piece of knotted rope in half and placing it across the rod. The folded portion should be nearest you, with the knot on the other side of the rod. Bring the knotted side toward you, passing under the rod and over the folded area of the rope.

Step 8: Affix the knotted rope to the back of the frames.

Step 9: Repeat until your display is complete.

Style it up until it looks picture perfect. You nailed it!

Materials: Sherwin-Williams® Emerald® Urethane Trim Enamel in two colors (Indigo SW 6531, Rhythmic Blue SW 6806), Screwdriver, dropcloth, sandpaper or sanding block, sponge or cleaning cloth, painter’s tape, paintbrushes, mini paint roller and tray.

Step 1: Remove the cabinet drawers with a screwdriver and set them aside.

Step 2: Remove any existing hardware on the doors and wipe clean the surfaces with your cloth. Lightly sand the doors and wipe any dust away.

If sanding down to bare wood, prime with Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer. (Always use a respirator when sanding.)*

Step 3: Affix painter’s tape along the interior trim of the cabinets. This will be the divider for the two color tones.

Step 4: Use a brush to paint the lighter shade on the edges and corners, then use the mini roller for the rest of the cabinet. Let them dry and apply a second coat as needed.

Step 5: Remove the painter’s tape and reaffix all hardware.

All done. Lookin' good!

Materials: Damp cloth; level; pencil, Smart Tiles; box cutter, hard-edged ruler, cutting mat, screwdriver (not pictured).

Step 1: Clean your wall with a damp sponge or cloth and let it dry. Then, remove all the wall socket covers.

Step 2: Use a ruler to outline the tile placement with a ruler and pencil.

Step 3: Remove the adhesive backing on the tiles and align them on the outlined grid. Apply a light pressure to push the tiles into place.

Step 4: Continue the installment by measuring the outline against the tiles. If there are some outliers, trim these with a box cutter and a hard-edged ruler to get the desired size.

Step 5: When you reach the wall sockets, hold the tiles over them, using a pencil to trace where to cut them. Use a box cutter to cut them.

Step 6: Continue applying the tiles until the desired area is completely covered. Gorgeous!

Materials: Bucket, basin wrench, new faucet (Check the number of holes on your current faucet's mounting plate and make sure your new faucet matches up)

Step 1: Turn off the water valve under your sink. Then, turn off the power that connects to your garbage disposal.

Step 2: Briefly turn the sink on to remove any excess water in the pipes.

Step 3: Place a bucket under your water supply lines before disconnecting them.

Step 4: Following the guidelines for our model, carefully remove the old faucet and wipe away remaining caulk and debris from the base.

Step 5: Install the gasket of the new faucet into place and bring the faucet lines up through the holes and mounting plate.

Step 6: Reconnect the water supply lines and check for leaks. Tighten with a basin wrench if need be.

And you're all set! Now you're going to *love* doing dishes, right? ;)

Materials: Sherwin-Williams® Emerald® Interior Paint in two colors (Fun Yellow SW 6908, High Reflective White SW 7757), Sherwin-Williams® Shrink-Free Spackling Compound, measuring tape, pencil, level, wooden trim, miter box, coping saw, stud finder (not pictured), hammer, trim nails, putty knife, sanding paper or sponge, cleaning cloth, painter’s tape, dropcloth, paintbrush, paint roller, bucket, extender or ladder as needed (not pictured).

TRIM INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: Measure where your first piece of trim will go. Use a level for evenness and mark it with a pencil.

Step 2: Place a miter box on an even surface or table and use the coping saw to cut the trim at a 90-degree angle. Measure where your first piece of trim will go. Use a level for evenness and mark it with a pencil.

Step 3: Install the pieces on the wall with the trim nails and a hammer. Check the fit to ensure there are no gaps between the pieces and that each one is flush with the wall. Note: The nails must go into wall studs so a stud finder is needed to locate these before the hammering begins. Repeat the above steps until the trim is complete.

Step 4: When finished, cover the nail holes with the spackle and let them dry. Sand the trim and clean any remaining dust.

If sanding down to bare wood, prime with Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer. (Always use a respirator when sanding.)*

PAINT INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: Start by cleaning all surfaces. Apply the painter’s tape below the newly installed trim.

Step 2: Use the paintbrush to paint along the edges of the trim and in the corners of the ceiling.

Step 3: Use a roller to paint the rest of the wall and ceiling (using an extender or ladder as needed).

Step 4: Let it dry and add a second coat of paint if necessary.

Step 5: Remove the painter’s tape.

And you're done! That two-toned look is twice as nice.

Materials: Upholstery foam, plywood (based on size of bed), upholstery batting, spray adhesive, fabric (3 or more yards, depending on size of bed), staple gun and staples, flush mount hangers, drywall screws and anchors, drill, level, painter's tape (not pictured).

Step 1: Cut the foam to match the size of your plywood. Then, cut the batting to the size of your headboard, leaving about a foot on each side to wrap around and staple to the back of the headboard.

Step 2: Apply spray adhesive to the plywood to affix the foam to the board. Wrap the batting around the headboard, fold the top and bottom over first, and staple-gun it to the back in roughly two-inch increments. “To get a good hold into the board through the batting and staples, you'll need to use staples that have a minimum of ⅜-inch depth,” says Jason Pickens, DIY expert for HGTV’s YouTube channel.

Step 3: Fold the remaining sides of the batting to the back and staple with the gun.

Step 4: Wrap the headboard in the fabric, folding the top and bottom over first, and staple gun it to the back until it's completely covered.

Step 5: Staple the fabric flush to the foam on the front.

Step 6: Attach flush mount hangers to the back of the headboard with the jagged edges of the mounts facing up and screw them into the wall studs or wall anchors.

Step 7: Hold the headboard up to the wall and use the painter’s tape to mark off each corner for placement.

Step 8: Attach another pair of flush mounts to the wall based off of where your painter’s tape is with the jagged edges facing down.

Step 9: Hang the headboard by sliding the upward-facing mounts on the headboard into the downward-facing mount on the wall. “Attach the headboard to the wall at the top corners as well as the bottom corners. This will keep it from hitting or smacking the wall,” says Pickens.

Bed, meet your new headboard! Super easy.

Materials: Tape measure, pencil, level, window brackets, wall anchors, drill, screws (2), curtain rods, curtains.

Step 1: Measure the length of your window and then add four inches (two on either side) to factor in rod length.

Step 2: Use the above figure to mark the placement of your window brackets with a pencil.

Step 3: Drill the screws ¾ of the way into the left side of the window frame. Apply the brackets and drill the remaining quarter in. Repeat the above steps on the right side, using the level to ensure evenness.

Step 4: Slide the curtain onto the rod and attach it to both hangers. Use your drill to tighten if need be.

Let the light shine in!

Materials: Sherwin-Williams® Emerald® Urethane Trim Enamel in three colors (Osage Orange SW 6890, Daffodil SW 6901, and Oleander SW 6603); screwdriver; wrench (not pictured); sanding block or electric sander; rag; tape; paint brush; small paint roller and tray; decorative knob.

Step 1: Use a screwdriver to unscrew the hinges from the cabinet and then use a wrench to remove the nut, washer, and knob.

Step 2: Start by cleaning all surfaces. Next, smooth them with a sanding block or electric sander and then dust off with a rag. The goal here is to abrade the surface to allow the paint to stick.

If sanding down to bare wood, prime with Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer. (Always use a respirator when sanding.)*

Step 3: Tape the inner portion of the door with one strip and paint the first color on the outer portion of the door. Let it dry and apply a second coat as needed.

Step 4: Tape off the inner edges of the cabinet and paint the exterior with the same color. Apply a second coat as needed. Let the paint dry and then remove the tape.

Step 5: Using the second color, paint the interior of the cabinet and let it dry. Apply a second coat as needed.

Step 6: Return to the door and tape off the outer (painted) edges. Use the third color to paint the remaining area of door. Apply a second coat as needed.

Step 7: Once dry, remove the tape and re-attach the doors to the cabinet.

Step 8: Insert the decorative knob, nut, and washer and tighten with a wrench as needed.

And like that, you took that cabinet from ordinary to statement piece!

Materials: Shelves (2), Sherwin-Williams® Multi-Purpose Primer, Sherwin-Williams® Emerald® Urethane Trim Enamel (Poseidon SW 6762), paint roller and tray (not pictured), stud finder, pencil (not pictured), brackets (4) and screws (8) (not pictured), drill, level.

Step 1: Apply the primer to the shelves and let them dry.

Step 2: Paint the shelves and let them dry. We used Sherwin-Williams® Emerald® Paint (Poseidon SW 6762). Apply a second coat as needed.

Step 3: Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Place the first shelf against the wall and make a pencil mark on the top left side.

Step 4: Place the bracket against the wall and use a pencil to mark both top and bottom holes before inserting the screws with the drill.

Step 5: Slide the shelf into the first bracket and position the second bracket against the wall on the right side. Place the level on the shelf to make sure both brackets are even, and mark the right side holes with a pencil. Remove the level and insert the second side screws with the drill to secure the shelf.

Step 6: Repeat instructions to install the second shelf.

Yes, this is total #shelfie goals!

Materials: Towel; crescent wrench; Teflon tape; replacement showerhead; extension arm.

Step 1: Locate your in-house water shutoff valve and turn off the water. This valve is often found near the point where water enters the house, close to the water meter.

Step 2: Cover the drain with a towel. "Oh, the tools and tiny screws that I have lost to shower and sink drains!” says Jason Pickens, DIY expert for HGTV’s YouTube channel.

Step 3: Use a crescent wrench to detach the old showerhead from its base. Clean any gray water scale and old tape from the base.

Step 4: Lightly wet the shower base threads so the tape sticks better and then tightly wrap the Teflon tape around threads of the new showerhead extension two to three times.

Step 5: Attach the new showerhead to the extension arm.

Step 6: Connect attached showerhead to the base, tightening with a wrench as needed.

Fancy new showerhead with an extender, without the plumber bill (or butt)!